Wednesday, May 26, 2010

Sometimes the name says it all

Posted by Ed

It’s difficult to describe the feeling or magical experience that’s derived from cruising throughout the Caribbean islands, so it occurred to me that through the various boats we have run across, the names of some of the boats are a pretty good indication of how others feel about cruising.

We have spent time with new friends from San Francisco who sail a beautiful Chuck Paine designed custom Lyman Morse 54 called “New Morning”. They are currently in the process of circumnavigating and are headed to the South Pacific. With each new day bringing a new morning, it also brings with it a new adventure to their lives.

“Freedom” is a name I have seen several times which says a lot about the feeling derived of being totally on your own, free from the stress of the everyday work world and other obligations everyone is faced with on a daily basis.

While spending the winter in the Caribbean we have often remarked that this is a wonderful feeling of an “Endless Summer” which seems to be in sync with other boat owners.

Newly married, a young German couple who are spending their honeymoon sailing from Germany to the Caribbean and back to Germany over a six month sojourn are sailing aboard a Bavaria 42 called “Dream Catcher”.

A Hunter 42 we saw, tricked out with dual wind generators, solar panels and a full enclosure for comfortable living aboard was called “Daydream”.

The boat that really had my curiosity was a Jeanneau called “YOLO”. After doing some research, it seems the owner is from Des Moines Iowa and once he was introduced to the Caribbean, he decided to make a life of sailing in the Caribbean as a charter skipper aboard “YOLO” which says it all “You Only Live Once”.

Others we have seen that also say it all, are “Tranquility”, Living the Dream” and then of course, there’s GYPSEA!

Gypsea and crew are back home in New England

Posted by Liz

Ed and crew arrived last night (Tuesday) in Beverly. Great to see Ed. They all had a good time, despite getting tossed around a bit in the Gulf Stream. Everyone in the crew chipped in and made for a great team.

This week back is being spent getting our lives in order - cars up to the shop for repairs, inspection stickers, doctors and dentist appointments, offloading the boat, getting the house in order.

We're both really sad that our adventure is over, but feel so blessed to have lived this life. When people ask me about the trip, it's really hard to describe it - but I've come up with three words that really summarize how we felt every day:

HAPPY
JOYFUL
PLAYFUL

Everyone I've seen this week says "You look different", "You look like a completely different person" - and I say - "It's because I'm Happy!".... I'm trying hard to make it last, and keep that happy karma a part of my everyday life going forward.

Tuesday, May 25, 2010

50 Miles from Home

Posted by Ed

Gypsea is almost to her New England home (she has another home somewhere between 10 and 18 degrees North)! Its been a very cold and foggy last 24 hours and we are in the home stretch. Many dolphins have visited Gypsea the last few days and the crew for both legs of the trip north have been great.

The passage has been uneventful and included a variety of conditions with some very light air, some not so light, a bit of uncomfortableness in the Gulfstream, warm temperatures, some cold temps the last few days, pea soup fog and some really great ocean sailing.

I hope I'm speaking for everyone...I can't wait to get out and do it again!

Thank you to everyone, Liz and I appreciate all your help!

Monday, May 24, 2010

Almost Home

Posted by Ed

We are approximately 40 miles from the buoy at the south end of the Great South Channel near Nantucket. From there we'll head NW for about 140 miles towards Marblehead Bell. We should be in the Gloucester or Beverly area sometime Tuesday night.

It's been very cold lately especially during the night since were back in the northern latitudes and something we haven't experienced for a long time...fog.

Cheers,
The crew of Gypsea

Sunday, May 23, 2010

Through the Gulf Stream - but not pretty

Posted by Ed

Sunday early afternoon and we are finally through the Gulfstream. It was a rough night probably similar to being in the agitation mode of a very large washing machine.

Our weather guru, Herb, on the SSB radio suggested a different way point to enter the stream which was another 125 miles to the northwest from our original way point that Commander's Weather gave us for entering the stream. Herb suggested the breeze will be about 25 knots from the SE and higher in the Gulfstream so it was best to traverse the stream Sunday night rather than Saturday evening. We actually traversed the stream Sunday morning.

Herb also said there is a discrepancy in the Gulfstream charts produced by the Navy and another Gulfstream chart called an altimeter chart. Herb believes the Navy chart was way off on defining the parameters of the Gulfstream and since his information was more current than our now three or four day old information from Commander's Weather, I chose to go with Herb's way points for entering the stream.

We altered course to the northwest and we were dead downwind with the wind up to 29 knots. The seas were pretty powerful and were tossing Gypsea around rolling port to starboard and back again making it difficult to steer and more difficult to get any rest as you were being tossed around in your bunk. We hand steered through the night rather than risk the chance of the windvane slipping into a jibe position.

In the early morning we were still a good distance from the way point for entering the Gulfstream but since it was so uncomfortable aboard, we jibed over and headed North across the Gulfstream and were clear of the stream in just about five hours.

Everyone is doing well although a little behind on our sleep but since Hans Solo (the Monitor windvane) is steering once again, we are able to relax and when off watch catch up on our sleep.

We are about 290 miles from Marblehead and should arrive sometime Tuesday assuming we don't have a strong easterly preventing us from sailing on the outside of Nantucket and Cape Cod.

Our present coordinates are 37 55.5N and 69 32.2W.

We will update our progress tomorrow.

Saturday, May 22, 2010

Saturday morning update

Posted by Ed

The breeze filled in late yesterday afternoon and we had a another delightful sail with a clear nights sky full of stars and good illumination from the first quarter of a waxing moon. We were enjoying a nice reach occasionally sailing in the seven knot range and those that were off watch slept very comfortably.

The breeze was getting light in the early morning and we were motor sailing until noon when the breeze filled in from the SE at 17 knots and were again sailing along at seven knots. We expect to enter the Gulfstream around 37 degrees North and 68 degrees West, sometime around midnight tonight.

The breeze is expected to pick up later to 20 or 25 knots from the East but hopefully will be less as we traverse the stream.

It's a beautiful day in the neighborhood with sunny skies and 74 degrees today.

More tomorrow after we get through the Gulfstream.

Friday, May 21, 2010

First 24 hours underway - Bermuda to Boston

Posted by Ed

The first 24 hours has passed and as of noon today and we have logged 128 miles for the first day. The sail through the night was delightful and uneventful. In the early morning the breeze went very light and we have been motoring since 0630.

To conserve fuel we only run the engine at 2000 RPM's and depending on the waves we may only make 5 to 5.5 knots towards our initial waypoint The entrance to the Gulfstream is still about 200 miles away and we should enter the stream sometime Saturday evening or very early Sunday morning. We have chosen to cross the Gulfstream at the narrowest area of the Gulfstream just to get through it and then set our course for home. Weather permitting we hope to sail to Beverly via the outside of the cape otherwise we may put in on the south coast of MA or go through the Cape Cod Canal.

Everyone gets along very well and all are well rested. Jim has been gracious enough to keep the gang well fed with meal preparations.

For our entertainment, Kurt spotted a whale breaching several times just about a half mile ahead of us and by the time he got his camera the whale decided to stop showing off.

Our position is noted below in this email but in case it isn't we are located at 34 03.0N 66 22.2W

Thursday, May 20, 2010

Back in Black - Ain't that America?

Posted by Liz

So, I left Bermuda on Monday to fly to Chicago to be with my mom post-surgery. It was high 70's and sunny and I cried as I left behind the sun, turquoise blue water, our boat, Ed and Chipper (the three of us haven't been a stone's throw apart for 6 months and I'm going to miss them), and overall, the life being left behind.

I was in shorts, a polo shirt and flip flops... no makeup, hair pulled back under the headband - and as I arrived in COLD, Rainy, Dreary, Ugly Newark NJ airport - I felt like a real "hayseed". All the other East Coast women were dressed in designer jeans, heels, perfectly coiffed hair, makeup and LOTS OF BLACK.

I forgot how the East Coast fashions always include Black. How depressing!! I've been living in a colorful world of blues, greens, yellows, pinks, oranges, purples - and the black clothing immediately dragged me down.

Then, there's everyone glued to their cell phones and laptops and IPods and gadgets - not looking at each other, but looking at intangible things. I don't even own a cell phone anymore (but have to get one now that I'm starting to work again as of June 1)!

I'm stressed out already just being back in this frenzied world.

Yesterday at mom's house I went for a long walk - - I was feeling so claustrophic and closed in. I'm used to being in open spaces 90% of my day, with fresh air and the beauty of nature around me at all times. Now, inside a house, I feel stiff, hard, not fluid, and stifled.

As I walked, I soaked in the blooming trees, the happy birds flitting from one tree to another, a fox. Our winter experience has taught me to take time to observe and appreciate all that is going on around us, instead of being so closed off.

I also caught a few glimpses of Lake Michigan along my path - and was drawn to that vision of open water - blue, but more of an icy cold blue - not the turquoise, warm blue of the Caribbean. Nonetheless, it was water and it was calling me. I stopped for moments to breathe it all in and wished I was back in the islands.

But then, along the walk, I ran into some sights that warmed my heart and to me, epitomize what America is all about... flags up already in preparation for Memorial Day, Fort Sheridan announcing a Memorial Day mass to remember the fallen soldiers, and boys warming up for a baseball game on an immaculately kept baseball diamond. The crack of the bat and the joy in their faces to be playing the game, with specatators arriving on bikes and with their dogs. It made me think of John Cougar Mellancamp's song "Ain't that America".

Getting settled back into this American culture is going to be a challenge - but hopefully I'll carry with me some of the peace and balance I discovered within our sailing and island lifestyle.

Liz with Mom - New Crew with Ed

Posted by Liz

Thanks to our friends/sailing network, we were able to rally a few more guys to help Ed move the boat from Bermuda to Boston, which enabled me to come home and be with my mom who is recovering from surgery.

Gypsea left Bermuda this morning around 11:30am Atlantic time, and it looks like they will have a very decent weather window making for a good trip. Five capable guys plus the cat - a "boys trip". I think they'll have fun!

Mom is doing well and glad to have her only daughter with her in Chicago and I'm glad to be here for a while.

Sunday, May 16, 2010

Update to Ed's posting about False Start

Posted by Liz

It was a tough decision that Ed made yesterday - and both Jim (crew member) and I applaud him for using such prudence and instinct based on many offshore miles of experience.

He emailed our weather routing service this morning (Commanders Weather) to let them know what we encountered yesterday and why he made the decision to turn back.

Turns out, they completely validated this decision, stating: "There have been a lot of changes in the outlook for Mon night and Tue with NE-E gales now expected between 37-40N so it is good that you turned around as you would have gotten caught up in that mess."

In fact, that "mess" would have hit us while we were just entering the Gulf Stream and we'd be on the leading edge of a huge low pressure, so we would have been tossed around - it just would have been ugly and not safe.

It probably looks best to wait until about Thu 5/20 to depart the way things
look now. It should be a quieter pattern late this week into next weekend,
let's hope it continues to look that way.

We are anxiously searching for 2 crew members to meet us here in Bermuda on Weds of this week so we could be prepared to depart Thursday AM. If any of our pals out there are able to help out, we'd be very appreciative.

Again, I have to say that I'm really proud of Ed for making a difficult decision, and couldn't think of anyone else who I'd rather sail with.

False Start on Saturday

Sunday update:

Departed BDA on Saturday, winds were from the WNW and veering to NW about 24 knots, right on our intended course line for an entrance way point to the gulfstream. Could not make decent boat speed with the wind on the nose and it was unlikely we would make the Gulf stream in time to get through it before the gale force moved in. Boats to the north of us as well as Herb of Southbound II (weather guru) were reporting 35 knots from the NW. It seemed likely we would encounter the gale force in the Gulfstream so we headed back to BDA and looking for a better weather window.

I'll keep you posted.

Friday, May 14, 2010

Weather window good - departing BDA on Sat AM

Posted by Liz

Ed just checked with Commanders Weather, and things look decent for an early AM departure tomorrow morning. There will be three of us - Ed, Jim O'Rourke and me, and of course, Chipper the cat! We should be fine, especially since the weather looks reasonably manageable and not TOO hairy! We should arrive back in the Boston area by next Thursday 5/20.

I did some last minute laundry this morning. Jim and Ed are putting fenders away and getting sails organized. We're going to clear out of Customs this afternoon, take nice long hot showers at the Dinghy Club, get some provisioning done (fruits, veggies, chicken, etc) and then have an early dinnner out, probably at the White Horse Tavern - our stomping ground.

Tonight we will hoist the dinghy up to dry off overnight, as it hangs in the harness, take the dinghy motor off and get it stowed away on the stern rail. Tomorrow we will deflate the dinghy and get it lashed down on the foredeck, will weigh anchor and be off - by 6am....

Please keep us in your prayers for a safe, comfortable and uneventful delivery back to Beantown!

Thursday, May 13, 2010

Delay in Bermuda - Looking for Crew

Posted by Liz

We arrived in Bermuda from Tortola this past Sat/Sunday (midnight Sunday, May 2nd). Had a terrific 5 days of sailing (although the first two out of Tortola were a bit rough-going), and then motored in light winds for the last 1 1/2 days.

One crew member left us on Monday, and the remaining three of us awaited new member, Jim, who arrived yesterday (Weds). We were hoping to blast out of here last evening but weather isn't looking good in the gulf stream, so being prudent, we're waiting it out with a new planned departure for Boston for Saturday.

The delay because of weather might mean losing one of our crew members - it's a tough juggling act with everyone's busy schedules back home and weather is always the thing that can't be controlled.

If we lose our fourth, the remaining three of us can do the delivery home, but it will be more fatiguing.... so, if any of you out there are interested in helping to bring Gypsea back to Boston, please let us know. It's not a passage for a first-timer, as we have to cross through the gulf stream where any icky weather will just be exacerbated and can get extreme.

In the meantime, we've had time to get our laundry and provisioning done, and enjoy hanging around St. George's, Bermuda, getting some walks and sight-seeing in and boat viewing done. Lots of boats are here for the ARC rally (all going across the pond together) and some boats heading back to New England are starting to come into port.

Stand by and we'll keep you posted on our departure plans - now tentatively scheduled for this Saturday, May 15th!

Monday, May 10, 2010

The One That Got Away


Posted by Ed

While sailing North from Tortola to Bermuda it was time to dig out the old fishing rod to see if we could provide a fresh tuna for dinner. The St. Croix fishing rod and Penn reel have been hanging in the forward cabin for several years untouched and needed a good dusting off. After inspection of the smaller plugs (fishing lures) it was discovered the best plug for tuna fishing was in poor condition with a very rusty fish hook and was discarded. The next best choice was a nine inch Rapala Magnum Mackerel lure. This lure was brand new and still in the box and waiting to be launched over the side to entice dinner.

The Rapala Magnum lure is a very colorful silver blue lure that wiggles as it is being pulled through the water by Gypsea and should look very appealing to any fish. Several hours went by when all of a sudden the fishing reel started to spin wildly out of control…we had a “strike” on our line and dinner awaits.

Everyone jumped to attend to the fishing rod and reel this creature in. Crew member Hal was working the fishing rod attempting to “play the fish” when this beautiful hugh billfish leaped out of the water into the air and tail walked across the top of the water for a distance of about 100 feet before diving deep into the ocean. Perhaps he wanted to see who the amateurs were that lured him into sampling our Rapala lure. There was a lot of pressure on the fishing rod and reel as this beautiful giant fish of about 150 or 200 pounds dove deeper and soon after bit through the stainless steel leader separating himself from the would-be fisherman and the hopes of a fresh fish dinner. It was collectively decided the billfish that we thought we had was a Marlin. He was much too big and much more than we could handle even if we could have reeled him in.

Now minus one twenty dollar lure, it was time to set another Rapala lure and try again. With the new lure smartly trailing well behind Gypsea we noticed at least three very beautiful Yellow Fin Tuna about four to six feet in length swimming about 10 feet behind Gypsea. They hung around the stern of our boat for about 10 minutes and I’m sure they were laughing their Yellow Fin Tails off at the fisherman aboard Gypsea.

Saturday, May 1, 2010

Time to Say Goodbye

Posted by Liz

Our two crewmembers are arriving this afternoon and Ed and I are just doing last minute things. I'm making a spinach lasagna so it's ready for our first night at sea (Sunday night).

Ed is gathering all the weather information today from Commanders Weather, and so far he believes that we're going to be having 20+ winds from a northeastly direction, which means pretty much on the nose, so we're going to have to make as much easting as possible to have as comfortable a sail as possible.

Tomorrow morning Ed will head over to Customs to check all of us out, we'll get rid of garbage, take a last long, hot shower over at the marina, and then slip the lines mid-morning.

Adrenalin is running - excitement but nervousness. Ed as Captain is always worried about safety of crew, weather, mechanics.

Well, we are signing off now until we reach Bermuda (late Sunday, May 9th, anticipated). If you'd like to know our progress while we're underway, please click on "Where's Gypsea Now" (top right corner of blog) - our location will be updated daily.

Your thoughts and prayers for a safe and uneventul passage will be appreciated.

Cheers for now,
Liz and Ed and Chipper - the cat